An other-worldy place, with silence, smooth seas and sunsets that don't quite get there! Glaciers and icebergs - ten-million-ton blocks of glistening ice that roam around the sea - some deep blue signifying their age, tens of thousands of years since the snow fell to make them. Dolphins, humpback whales. Inuit villages of 20 people, no roads between settlements; seal hunting to feed the sled-huskies.